Ben Wood
Entering Room in Manchester, it would seem that it is not inappropriately named, and that the stunningly ornate room, previously of the Manchester Reform Club, is the centrepiece of the whole experience of the restaurant. To a certain extent this is true; at the top of a sweeping staircase an imposing statue of William Gladstone, who originally opened the Club in 1871, guards the entrance to the vast, high-ceilinged dining room and bar, where venetian gothic windows and beautifully masoned fireplaces adorn the walls, contrasting with the giant modern lampshades hanging from the ceiling and the crisp white table cloths in lines across the room. However, the food and drink at Room does a worthy job of living up to such stunning surroundings.
With the restaurant being renowned as an excellent cocktail bar in its own right, we ordered a couple of Room G&Ts to start with, especially considering that on weekdays before 8, they are almost half price. This twist on the traditional gin and tonic was inspired, with muddled sage accentuating the herbaceous nature of the gin, and crushed grapes adding some balance of sweetness to the splash of tonic. As we were dining early evening (before 7, so keep lunch light), we could take advantage of the ‘All inclusive’ set menu; three courses and a glass of very decent house wine being exceptional value at £17.50. Continue reading